Historic Building Details

HB Ref No:
HB26/16/005 A

Address :
WILMONT LADY DIXON PARK BELFAST

Townland:
Old Forge

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Survey 2:
B+

Date of Listing:
20/01/1980 00:00:00

Date of De-listing:

Current Use:
Residential Home

Former Use
Country House

Conservation Area:
No

Industrial Archaeology:
Yes

Vernacular:
No

Thatched:
No

Monument:
Yes

Derelict:
Partially

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OS Map No:
146/16SW

IG Ref:
J3061 6760

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Owner Category

Exterior Description And Setting

Detached two-storey with basement Italianate country house, of c1859 possibly by Thomas Jackson, Belfast in red brick with sandstone dressings, hipped natural slate roof, heavy overhanging eaves and several tall chimneystacks. Asymmetrical, with main block to W, largely rectangular on plan, abutted by lower u-shaped return to E forming central courtyard, with three-storey corner tower to NE. Originally two semi-detached dwellings (refer to history) with N & S entrances; however, internal alterations by the Dixon family c.1920 and conversion to a nursing home c.1960 means it no longer reads as such. Set within an extensive 134 acre parkland demesne, now a public park, on the W side of Upper Malone Road, known today as Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park after the then owners who gifted the park to Belfast Corporation in 1959; wall-mounted bronze plaques at the northernmost gate screen commemorate this event. The walled garden (HB26.16.005D), SW of the house is contemporary and survives complete with a later gardener’s shed. The southernmost entrance on Upper Malone Road retains its gate lodge (HB26.16.005B) and leads to car park with remains of former stable block (HB26.16.005C) now converted to café and offices. The grounds are bound by M1 to W, Upper Dunmurry Lane to NE and lagan navigation (SMR ref DOW009: 500) to SW. Former lock-keeper’s house of 1756 (HB26.16.006) sits at extreme SW on the lagan towpath and although no longer within the current boundary, the former estate workers’ dwellings of Wilmont Cottages (HB26.16.007) mark the NW corner. Further information on planned landscape features and descriptions of various scheduled monuments available from NI Heritage Gardens Inventory (ref AN-068). Main block: roof hipped on all four sides with lower central platform having flat roofed lift shaft; slated curved roof over bay to W; small gabled dormer to E, near SE corner; seven chimneys in total: two each to S, E and W sides, rectangular plan, centred on ridge and symmetrically placed; and another rising from eaves to E. Return: roof hipped on three sides with open courtyard to centre and square hipped roof tower to NE; six chimneys in total: one tall external stack to S side of courtyard; two at tower; one centred on ridge to S wing; one square-on-plan at SE hipped corner; and one rising from eaves at E wing. Partial in-fill at courtyard appears to be flat roofed. All chimneys red brick two-stage with moulded sandstone between stages, cornice with plain band below and octagonal yellow clay pots, unless otherwise stated. Materials ROOF: Natural slate, including return. Porch roof not seen. RWG: Cast iron; ogee gutters and circular section downpipes. WALLS: Red brick in Flemish bond with buff-pink Giffnock sandstone dressings. WINDOWS: MAIN BLOCK: Single glazed double-hung sliding sashes, flat arched to ground floor with 2/2 panes; and segmental arched to first floor with 6/6 panes. WINDOWS: RETURN: Single glazed double-hung sliding sashes, flat arched with 6/6 panes to S, 6/3 panes to N, E and courtyard; 2/2 panes to attic tower with round arched fanlight over (unless otherwise stated). Note: Built as pair of semi-detached villas, both N & S elevations are equally prominent. SOUTH ELEVATION: Comprised of main block to left (W) and return to right. Main block: largely symmetrical; central entrance flanked by three windows each side at ground floor, those to left bowed and contained within single storey projection with balcony over (a later addition); at first floor, single window to centre flanked by two openings each side; those nearest to centre are narrower with 4/4 panes. French doors above flat-roofed projection in place of window, although original surround remains. Openings generally align over ground and first floors. Storm glazing fixed to lower sashes at single-storey projection. Sandstone dressings include: toothed quoins to E & W corners of main block and of single-storey projection; moulded base plinth; string course between ground and first floors; and between cills at ground floor windows; moulded window surrounds, cills and brackets; and apron panels below ground floor windows. Entrance door surround entirely of sandstone, with ashlar walling, moulded round-arched opening at double doors (timber framed, six panelled with plain fanlight); projecting keystone and moulded impost, string course above arch and cornice; indented roundel to right of arch – left side abutted by single storey projection which results in uneasy juxtaposition. Three concrete steps to entrance. Painted plain cornice band at eaves (possibly stone) with profiled lower edge, moulded timber brackets to overhanging eaves, painted timber soffit and eaves board supporting cast iron gutter. Chimney near hipped junction of roof at E side has 3-4 courses grey brick below projecting sandstone cap. Return: markedly lower, with eaves set just above first floor level to main block; grass bank descends to path at basement level, with hedging along upper edge. Basement comprised of randomly spaced openings, all bricked or boarded up. Five windows each on ground and first floor, equally spaced, aligned and offset slightly to W; those second to left boarded up. Easternmost bay has notably different brickwork, suggesting the the eastern wing is a later addition. Dressings confined to ground and first floor only and plainer, with toothed quoins to E; square cut window surrounds with matching string course between cills stepped up at far E. Eaves projection shallower than at main block; and without cornice or brackets. Two chimneys, one square-plan with four pots and centred on ridge, the other rectangular with two pots near hipped edge. S elevation of tower: roof and eaves as main block, abutted by E wing of return up to first floor level. Attic above has pair of round arched windows, with string course as N & E face. Wall mounted cast iron bell next to windows. NORTH ELEVATION: Comprised of main block to right (W) and return to left, including tower block. Main block: symmetrical with overhanging eaves and sandstone dressings same as noted to S Elevation. Projecting porch with raised parapet and Renaissance balustrade centred at ground floor, single window to W and tripartite window to E; and three equally spaced openings at first floor. Carved stone roundel adjacent to entrance bearing initials ‘JB’ for James Bristow. Double entrance doors within segmental arched opening at W face of porch, opening onto level access platform with concrete steps and ramp having modern metal handrail and uprights. Porch now painted but thought to have been originally ashlar sandstone; tripartite window centred on W face, with delicate leaded and stained glass to lower panes. Twin rectangular plan chimneys centred on ridge, both with three pots. Return: Four bays wide recessed between main block and tower and detailed as per S Elevation of return, including windows and surrounds. Three-storey tower similarly detailed, with toothed quoins and additional floor comprised of twin round arched windows to centre, with shared cill and continuous string course at impost, sandstone arched heads and keystones. Tower roof and eaves detailed as main block. Ground floor abutted by later flat-roofed building enclosing plant equipment, of little historic interest. EAST ELEVATION: Of all four sides, E is most ‘back-of-house’ in appearance. Three-storey tower to right (N) and three-bay wide return to left side. Tower: detailed as N face, including quoins above eaves level at return; single opening at first floor largely concealed by ivy. Adjacent porthole window viewed inside building; plans also show two windows at ground floor (not seen). Return: detailed as S Elevation, with three equally spaced windows at first floor. Ground floor: three openings aligned with windows above and one additional smaller window; that to far S contains flush door, opening onto bridge that spans basement well. Small window has 4/2 panes and adjacent window to S has 1/1 panes. Bridge formed in steel with tubular metal uprights and handrails, all painted. Concrete steps and raised kerb adjacent to bridge; remainder of grassed bank has mature hedge aligning upper edge. Openings to basement randomly placed, with soldier coursed brick headers. Three chimneys: one near SE corner at hipped roof (described at S elevation); second rising from eaves between windows with two pots; and third at SE corner of tower. WEST ELEVATION: Symmetrical with full height bowed bay to centre and formally arranged openings. Bay has three windows to each ground and first floors, flanked by single windows. Ground floor windows at bay and that to N embellished by decorative carved timber pelmet set flush with outer face of reveal; painted. Dressings as described to S elevation, including plinth, quoins, window surrounds, string courses and overhanging eaves. Basement not exposed, although some Scrabo rubblestone visible below plinth at N corner. Plinth, stringcourse and toothed quoins continued at W side of single-storey flat-roofed projection, although brick slightly different and notably cracking along line of RWP. W face of porch to opposite end (N) comprised of segmental arch with timber framed panelled double doors (replacement) and moulded panel above. COURTYARD: Access to courtyard not possible; survey obtained from views through first floor windows. Windows on all four sides of brick walls; informally arranged and mainly having 3/6 panes to basement, 4/2 panes to ground and 6/3 panes to first floor, where seen. Large red brick external chimney stack. External metal escape stair descends to basement with fire exits at upper floors. House surrounded by tarmac path and lawns enclosed by mature trees. Brick and sandstone walling remains intact to NE corner and at S entrance; elsewhere, walls and steps replaced in concrete. Path from S leads to yew walk with cast iron gate and raised pond having dressed stone surround and crown centrepiece. Walled garden to SW of yew walk, ref HB26.16.005D. Some remains of outbuildings (HB26.16.005C) to SW of house, now substantially altered with modern accretions used to store park maintenance equipment. Strap pointing to basalt stone walls; hipped roof and multi-paned windows replaced with appropriate natural slate and timber frames. Inside, largely modernised café at ground floor; upstairs not accessed. Red brick and reconstituted stone pillars and walling mark the entrance to the park at the northernmost gate lodge; embossed bronze plaques dated 1959 commemorate the donation of the park by Lady Dixon to the Belfast Corporation. Modern gates and bungalow in place of original gate lodge.

Architects

Jackson, Thomas

Historical Information

Historical background - The origins of the Wilmont estate may be traced to 1757 when John Stewart of Ballydrain (1701-84), the head of a long established family in the area, leased 54 acres at Old Forge from the Donegall estate. Around the same time, one of John’s younger sons, William Stewart (1735-1808), obtained a lease of 29 acres at neighbouring Drum Bridge. Using, it would seem, lands from both of these acquisitions, William established a small estate in the area, which –perhaps as a play on his name- he named ‘Wilmont’. Notices in the Belfast News Letter in 1765 and 1766 mention William Stewart in connection with a bleach yard at Drum Bridge, but from 1767 onwards he is described as of ‘Wilmont’, so we may assume that he had built a new house by this point. The building is marked by name on Taylor’s and Skinner’s road map of 1777. As the mention of the bleach yard indicates, Stewart, like many other landowners in the Lagan Valley at this period, was involved in the linen trade, and he had a bleach green on the Wilmont estate by at least 1784, which continued to be used up until 1815. He is also recorded as being involved in the sale of trees, crown glass, Welsh slates, the hardwood lignum-vitae, and by the early 1800s, grew carrots on a large scale also. After William Stewart’s death in 1808, Wilmont passed to his eldest son, John, a seemingly dissolute figure who ran up large debts before his death, without issue, in 1829. By this stage the Stewart family’s fortunes as a whole were in decline and although Wilmont, passed to John’s brother, James Stewart, the house was not occupied and came into the hands of the Court of Chancery in 1837. In 1844 the estate was mortgaged to the Northern Bank. In 1847 the bank leased it to Alexander McKenzie Shaw, a Belfast brewer who in the next two years planted over 21,000 trees within the grounds and carried out repairs to the house. He bought the estate outright in 1855, but a debt of over £12,500 forced him to sign it over to the Northern Bank once again the following year. Several months after this, Wilmont was leased to one of the bank’s directors, and later chairman, James Bristow (1796-1866). Bristow found an estate more akin to a large farm rather than a gentleman’s demesne and immediately set about making changes. The most important of these was the demolishing of the old house and building the present one (believed to have been designed by Thomas Jackson) on slightly higher ground to the north. He also redirected the main drive, added a gate lodge, walled garden, and laid out formal gardens close to the house. Somewhat ironically, however, given all of this gentrification, the new house itself was actually a (non-identical) pair of semi-detached dwellings, with James Bristow occupying one half and his son, James Thompson Bristow (c.1826-77) and his family, living in the other. James Thompson succeeded his father to the Wilmont estate, and the chairmanship of the Northern Bank, upon the latter’s death in 1866. He himself died in 1877 leaving a minor as his heir and the estate was placed in the hands of trustees. In 1879-80 the trustees leased it to Robert Sturrock Reade (1837-1913), who later acquired it outright c.1897. R.S. Reade may have purchased the estate partly for sentimental reasons, for he was a great-grandson of Robert Stewart (1742-97) a younger brother of William Stewart of Wilmont. An active individual, Mr. Reade had risen to become the chairman of the York Street Flax Spinning Company, and was subsequently appointed President of the Flax Spinners Association 1888-94, President of the Flax Supply Association 1893-1905, and President of Belfast Chamber of Commerce in 1881 and 1906. He also served as a J.P. and Deputy Lieutenant for Belfast. His lasting contribution to Wilmont appears to have been the construction of a new rear drive and gate lodge, and the ‘shaded walk’ to the north of the walled garden. Mr. Reade died in 1913 and Wilmont passed to his son George, who sold it in 1919 to Sir Thomas (1868-1950) and Lady Edith Dixon (1867-1964). Both were prominent public figures, Sir Thomas serving as High Sheriff for County Antrim in 1912, and County Down in 1913, and between 1913 and 1950, as well as Lieutenant of Belfast, and Mayor of Larne (1939-41), whilst Lady Edith was created a Dame of the British Empire after the First World War in recognition of her work with the forces. Wilmont was one of three seats the Dixons came to own, the others being Drumadarragh near Doagh and Cairndhu, outside Larne. They are believed to have made extensive changes to the interior of the house itself, taking down walls that had been part the Bristow’s original ‘semi-detached’ plan (see architecture). In 1934 Wilmont served as the temporary residence for the Governor of Northern Ireland, after Government House in Hillsborough was damaged in a fire, and during World War II the house was the HQ for the US forces stationed in this country. In 1959, Lady Dixon handed the 134 acre Wilmont estate over to Belfast Corporation, for use as a public park. The new ‘Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park and Playing Fields’ (as it was originally known) was officially opened in April 1963, with the house, which became an old peoples' home, opening a few weeks afterwards. The initial changes to the layout of the old estate were relatively minor, the construction of a children’s playground (to the south of the house), with car park spaces also provided to the north. In 1964, the park was chosen to become the setting for a large rose garden, with an area within the parkland to the west and north-west of the house set aside for trial purposes. The first trials took place in 1965-66, and in 1975 ‘Belfast Rose Week’ was inaugurated, to involve the visiting public to a greater degree in the Trials. In the late 1980s the rose garden area was redeveloped, officially opening again in July 1990. Since then there have been several other alterations to the park, the most notable being the demolition of some of the outbuildings and the conversion of the remaining structures to a tea shop, the demolition of the northern gate lodge and its replacement with a modern bungalow, and the renovation of the children’s playground. Wilmont House, however, has not undergone the same ‘renaissance’ as its grounds. It closed as a nursing home in the early 1990s, with ownership reverting to Belfast City Council, and despite various proposals in recent years, it has yet (March 2017) to find a permanent use. Wilmont House - The house itself is believed to have been designed by Belfast-based architect, Thomas Jackson (1807-90), and although it shows many of his hallmarks there appears to be no contemporary documentation confirming his involvement. It is thought to have been constructed in 1859; however, it appears on the 6in OS map of 1857, so either the dating of the building is incorrect, or the map, like some others of 1850s-60s revised edition, was updated in subsequent years and the opportunity taken to include the new building. The house is noted in the valuation of 1862, as a ‘red brick house, very well built [with] stone eaves.’ Most of the sections we see today accounted by the valuers, although a small plan in the margin does not show the porch to the north nor the projection to the south. The southern projection, sitting awkwardly as it does next to one of the entrances, breaks up the symmetry of this side of the main portion of the building, and is faced in noticeably different brick. The valuations give no indication of when it was added, but photographic evidence suggests it is post-c.1913 and indeed it does not appear on any OS map until 1938. The eastern range of the rear service section also appears to be an addition, also documents suggest it may have been added relatively soon after the house was complete. The porch to the north looks later also, but it too is difficult to date. The glazing suggests it may be c.1890s or early 1900s. The later valuations do not mention any major alterations to the house, although the Dixons (owners from 1919) are reported to have changed the internal layout, sweeping away the vestiges of the buildings former semi-detached existence. Much of the Neo-Classical Style interior detailing may have been their work, although iit looks more c.1890-1900. With the conversion of the property to an old people’s home in the early 1960s there were further changes to the interior, with the subdividing of many rooms. Remarkably, though, the building’s external appearance remained largely untouched, with the small brick extension to the north side of the return the only really noticeable addition of this period. References – Primary sources 1 ‘Belfast News-Letter’, 8 November 1756, 4 March 1766, 5 June 1767, 27-30 July 1784 2 PRONI D509/137 (1757) 3 ‘Taylor’s and Skinner’s Maps of the roads of Ireland’ (Dublin, 1777), map 5 4 PRONI OS6/1/64/1 (1832) 5 PRONI VAL1B/126 (1834) 6 ‘OS Memoirs of Ireland Volume Eight’, ed. Angelique Day and Patrick McWilliams, (QUB, 1991), pp.125-26 (1837) 7 PRONI OS6/1/64/2 (1857) 8 PRONI VAL2B/1/20 (1862) 9 PRONI VAL12B/8/15A-M (1862-1928) 10 ‘Belfast and Province of Ulster Directory’, (Belfast, 1880, 1884) 11 PRONI OS6/1/64/4 (1920-21) Secondary sources 1 Black Eileen, “Wilmont, Dunmurry: A profile” in ‘Lisburn Historical Society Journal Vol.4’ (1982) 2 Black, Eileen, “A glimpse of Drumbeg, 1750-1800” in ‘Lisburn Historical Society Journal Vol.7’ (1989) 3 Scott, Robert, ‘A breath of fresh air, the story of Belfast’s parks’, (Belfast, 2000) pp. 111-115, 178-179 4 Rankin, Kathleen, ‘Linen houses of the Lagan Valley’ (Belfast, 2002), pp.126-35; 5 Simon, Ben, ‘If trees could talk, the story of woodlands around Belfast’, (Belfast, 2009), pp. 37, 54, Appendix 3-4

Criteria for Listing

Architectural Interest

A. Style B. Proportion C. Ornamentation D. Plan Form I. Quality and survival of Interior J. Setting K. Group value

Historic Interest

S. Authenticity V. Authorship R. Age T. Historic Importance Y. Social, Cultural or Economic Importance U. Historic Associations W. Northern Ireland/International Interest

Evaluation

Detached two-storey with basement Italianate country house, c1859, possibly by Thomas Jackson of Belfast. Asymmetrical, with main block, lower u-shaped return and three-storey corner tower in red brick with sandstone dressings. It has group value with its gate lodge (HB26.16.005B), former stable block (HB26.16.005C) and walled garden (HB26.16.005D). Built originally for James Bristow as two semi-detached dwellings with N & S entrances; 20th century alterations means it no longer reads as such. Nonetheless, interior decorative features and joinery remain largely intact. The building retains its original setting, an extensive 134 acre parkland demesne (HGI ref AN-068), known today as Sir Thomas and Lady Dixon Park after the then owners who gifted both the house and park to Belfast Corporation in 1959; the northernmost gate screen on Upper Malone Road commemorates this event. Historic associations with the Dixons, prominent public figures, mean that Wilmont House and its gardens are of national interest.

General Comments

Date of Survey

06 March 2017