Historic Building Details

HB Ref No:
HB26/02/001

Address :
Cooke Centenary Presbyterian Church Ormeau Road Belfast County Antrim

Townland:
Ballynafoy

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Survey 2:
B1

Date of Listing:
14/03/1986 00:00:00

Date of De-listing:

Current Use:
Church

Former Use
Church

Conservation Area:
No

Industrial Archaeology:
No

Vernacular:
No

Thatched:
No

Monument:
No

Derelict:
No

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OS Map No:
147/2

IG Ref:
J3455 7218

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Owner Category

Church - Presbyterian

Exterior Description And Setting

A free-standing double-height Gothic-Revival Presbyterian Church with two-stage square tower and Chapter house, dated 1890-91 and built to designs by W.J. Fennell. Located on the east side of Ormeau Road between Park Road and North Parade, near Belfast city centre. Cruciform-plan facing west with almost full-height extension, two-storey gabled Chapter House to east; single-storey lean-to extension to southeast; gable fronted and flanked by two-stage entrance tower to northwest (opening to north) and polygonal full-height stair bay to southwest; transepts abutted to west by lean-to porch. Pitched natural slate roof with raised stone skews having finial to gable; decorative terracotta ridge tiles with finial to polygonal stair bay. Lead valleys and cast-iron rainwater goods on a moulded sandstone corbelled eave band; rubblestone chimneystack to gable of rear extension. Rubblestone walling laid in rough courses with chamfered plinth course; rubblestone buttresses with masonry offsets to all sides (angled buttresses to tower). Leaded-and-stained glass paired lancets in sandstone surrounds with chamfered sills, surmounted by hood moulds and carved head stops; single lancet to second stage of tower; geometric plate tracery rose windows to transepts surmounting five gothic lancets; quatrefoils to stair bay. The principal elevation is dominated by a double-height pointed arched recess, infilled with paired entrance and gothic leaded-and-stained glass five-pane mullioned window with rosettes, in moulded Romanesque-style surround with semi-engaged colonnettes. Double entrance surmounted by an ornate Gothic-style moulded screen with carved insets. Gothic-headed insets over entrance doors read, from left, “CENTENARY YEAR 1888” and “ERECTED 1890-1”; surmounted by carved roundel with wreath and banner inscribed “COOKE CENTENARY CHURCH”; a pointed-arch pierced screen with quatrefoil and cross finial surmounts the panel. Replacement timber-sheeted doors to entrance flanked by semi-engaged colonnettes on chamfered plinths. To left of gable is a decorative pinnacle with semi-engaged corner colonnettes, moulded cornice and decorative finial to apex. Original timber-sheeted entrance door to stair bay in Gothic-headed chamfered reveal. North nave elevation divided by buttreses into five bays, all having paired windows with the exception of that to left, which has a single window. Abutted at right by the two-stage tower; abutted at left by the north transept with single-storey vestry to re-entrant angle. Porch has original double-leaf timber-sheeted doors in chamfered gothic reveal, accessed by a single masonry step; diminutive round window to cheek. The east elevation is abutted by a series of two-storey extension, varying in height. Sandstone rose window to centre of main extension, which is front by the two-storey gabled chapter house (lower and slightly projecting at left) with single-storey lean-to extension at far left. Generally lancet-headed windows some paired; north elevation (of chapter house) having five-paned window to ground floor. South nave elevation is seven windows wide; abutted at left by the polygonal stair bay; abutted at right by the south transept with lean-to porch (as at north elevation). Setting: Prominently sited between Park Road and North Parade opposite the former Ormeau Bakery, with parallel entrances and disabled parking to front; landscaped to south. Enclosed by cast-iron railings, north side has rock-faced plinth with piers and masonry coping. Decorative cast-iron entrance gates to northwest and southwest on rock-faced square piers with pointed masonry caps. Roof: Natural slate Walling: Rubble-stone Windows: Leaded and stained glass lancets RWG: Cast-iron

Architects

Fennell, William J

Historical Information

Cooke Centenary Presbyterian church was built between 1890 and 1892 to designs by W J Fennell. (Belfast Newsletter) A congregation was formed at Ormeau in 1887, in response to rapid population growth in the area, and initially held its services in the newly built Ballynafeigh Orange Hall. The site of the present church was acquired in 1889 from Belfast Corporation who were disposing of part of the former demesne of the Marquess of Donegall at Ormeau Park. (Irish Builder) The site was partially occupied by a former gate lodge to the demesne, now gone. The building of such a large church in Ballynafeigh was an act of faith as well as an assertion by the Presbyterian church of what they felt to be their pre-eminent position within Belfast. Joining these motivations was a strong sense of duty towards the spiritual welfare of the working-classes who were now filling the new terraces springing up on every side. The process that culminated in the opening of the new church was followed closely by the Belfast Newsletter. A decision was taken in December 1888, the centenary of Henry Cooke’s birth, to erect a church in Ballynafeigh in his memory. Dr Cooke (1788-1868) had lived in the Ballynafeigh area ‘for a very long period’ and was an extremely significant, if somewhat divisive figure within Irish Presbyterianism. Bitterly opposed to the Unitarian elements within the church, he ultimately brought about their separation. His followers built him a church in May Street where he preached until his death in 1868. He became Moderator of Synod of Ulster in 1824 and twice Moderator of General Assembly in 1841 and 1862 and was active politically, campaigning against the policies of Daniel O’Connell. (Dictionary of Ulster Biography; Belfast Newsletter) A need was particularly felt in the Ballynafeigh area at the time which was described, at a meeting to discuss the building of a new church, to be ‘a rapidly-increasing and improving neighbourhood. Within the last four years over two hundred and twenty new houses had been built in Ballynafeigh district, making an increase of over 1100 souls. In 1884 all the accommodation which Mr Workman’s church [at Newtownbreda] afforded was fully occupied and as a good number of the increased population were adherents of the Presbyterian Church...the necessity of a new church would be at once admitted. That increased population consisted for the most part of the working class who themselves were not able to provide funds for the erection of a new church but who, if a church were built, would be quite willing to pay stipend and assist the missions of the Church. Under these circumstances therefore it was the imperative duty of the Church and of those who had means to provide the means of grace for those who had not means.” (Belfast Newsletter) By December 1888 £700 had been subscribed towards the new church and by March 1889 the fund stood at £1200. William McCausland of Cherry Vale came forward and offered to pay the ground rent of the site in the Ormeau Road as it was felt that unless it was secured, the available land would be built on. (Belfast Newsletter) A very large church to seat 1100 people was envisaged and plans were prepared by William John Fennell, a prolific and versatile architect whose legacy includes the Water Commissioner’s Office in Royal Avenue and the Mater Infirmorum Hospital. (www.dia.ie) The contractor was Messrs Henry Laverty & Sons of Whitla Street, Belfast. (Belfast Newsletter) The work was inaugurated by cutting the first sod on Saturday 31st May 1890. The ceremony was performed by William McCausland of Cherry Vale who was credited with having done more than any other member of the committee to promote the undertaking. He pointed out the site, paid rent for some years, and paid the largest subscription and exerted his personal influence to raise many more. He was presented with a silver spade with bog oak handle. The size of the undertaking was not lost on those present, but McCausland set aside these concerns, commenting, “Some of their friends thought probably that they were spending too much money in building such a church. They must, however, advance with the times, for if they did not the Presbyterians would not hold their position as the leading denomination in Belfast.” The advantages of the site, between North Parade and Park Road were praised, meaning that the church could never be hemmed in by development. It was to be built of white sandstone from the Glebe quarries near Newtownards and would accommodate nine hundred people. “The area of the church would seat more than this but the committee desired to give the most ample space possible to each sitting, as well as wide, spacious aisles and the utmost possible space for Communion services” It was intended that the tower would terminate in a spire, together rising to the height of one hundred and fifty feet. (Belfast Newsletter) On July 9th 1890, two foundation stones were laid.by Mr Samuel Lawther JP on behalf of the Mayor and Mr Edward Macrory QC, one for the church itself and one for the tower. As was customary, newspapers and coins of the day were deposited in glass bottles within a specially made cavity within the stones. The Moderator of the General Assembly who was present at the occasion, was moved to comment, “In a city like Belfast it was a good thing to see so many towers of churches at the street corners rising to heaven”. (Belfast Newsletter) The Cooke Centenary Church first appears in valuation records in 1891, at a valuation of £240 and is first shown on the third edition OS map of 1901-2. (Annual Revisions) The church conducted its opening services on Sunday 1 May 1892 and a full description of the interior and exterior is given. “The gallery is supported on Newry granite columns with Glebe stone caps and bases. The church is fully pewed and all the joinery work is of yellow pitch pine with walnut mouldings, all French polished.” (Belfast Newsletter) To the rear of the church were buildings containing a session room and ladies’ retiring room and ministers’ vestry all with separate entrances. The eventual cost of the building was £6,667, an enormous amount for the time. (Allen) The very heavy debt which remained on the church was wiped out in the 1890s and a new school to designs by Young & Mackenzie was opened for use in 1903. An organ was installed in 1913 obscuring one of the rose windows that would originally have been visible from inside the building and also forcing the relocation of the pulpit. (Allen) Walker claims that the present organ is composed of sections taken from the Conacher organ belonging to Carlisle Memorial Methodist church which was brought to Cooke Centenary when Carlisle closed in 1980. (Walker) The congregation continued to grow and in 1956 a plan for refurbishing the organ and redecorating and rewiring the church was completed. A new suite of church halls in Park Road was completed in 1962. Since the mid-twentieth century, a number of factors have led to a decline in the congregation. However, a new minister has recently been installed after a vacancy of 18 months. (Allen) References: Primary Sources 1. PRONI OS/6/3/4/1 – First Edition OS Map 1834 2. PRONI OS/6/3/4/2 – Second Edition OS map 1858 3. PRONI OS/6/3/4/3 – Third Edition OS Map 1902 4. PRONI OS/6/3/4/4 – Fourth Edition OS Map 1920-21 5. PRONI OS/6/3/4/5 – Fifth Edition OS Map 1931 6. PRONI VAL/12/B/43/A/1-45 – Annual Revisions (1863-1930) 7. Belfast Newsletter, 12th December 1888 8. Belfast Newsletter, 22nd March 1889 9. Belfast Newsletter, 2nd June, 1890 10. Belfast Newsletter, 10th July 1890 11. Belfast Newsletter, 29th April 1892 12. Irish Builder, 1st May 1892 Secondary Sources 1. “A History of Congregations in the Presbyterian Church in Ireland 1610-1982” authorised by the General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church in Ireland, Belfast: Presbyterian Historical Society of Ireland, 1982 (available at www.presbyterianhistoryireland.com) 2. Allen, R www.cookecentenary.org.uk 3. McGuire, J and Quinn, J, eds “Dictionary of Irish Biography” Cambridge: Cambridge University Press and Royal Irish Academy, 2009 4. Walker, S “Historic Ulster Churches” Belfast: Institute of Irish Studies, 2000 5. www.dia.ie – Dictionary of Irish Architects online

Criteria for Listing

Architectural Interest

A. Style B. Proportion C. Ornamentation D. Plan Form I. Quality and survival of Interior J. Setting

Historic Interest

R. Age S. Authenticity U. Historic Associations X. Local Interest V. Authorship Y. Social, Cultural or Economic Importance

Evaluation

A free-standing double-height Gothic-Revival Presbyterian Church with two-stage square tower and Chapter house, dated 1890-91 and built to designs by W.J. Fennell. Prominently sited to the east side of Ormeau Road between Park Road and North Parade, near Belfast city centre. Essentially of early French character with some Early English detailing, architectural fabric is largely intact with a well-preserved Gothic Revival interior with a similarly well-preserved chapter house which retains much of its original character adding to the architectural and historic interest of the building. Impressively proportioned on a prominent landscaped site, Cooke Centenary makes a significant contribution to the architectural character and variety of the area and is of considerable social importance and interest to the local community.

General Comments

Date of Survey

22 April 2011